Since rightist dictator and murderer Pinochet, who had replaced leftist dictator Allende, was removed in his turn, things have been looking up for Chile. It may now be called the most advanced country in all Latin America (even if it's rather backwards compared with Suid Afrika.) Of course, capital Santiago de Chile is a showcase.
Santiago was a stop on our way to Puerto Montt (by bus) from where we took a ferry to Puerto Natales as the start of our Patagonia exploration. By a rare stroke of luck, I'd managed to book lodgings in the old-town Bellavista neighborhood. Surrounded by mountains, the city is smog-bound. Sprawls out with little plan or system in sight.