There's a sort of rocky wart sticking out in the city center: Santa Lucia. Turned into a park adorned with fountains, plants, stairs and fake castles around 1900, you can climb up it and breathlessly enjoy the view from the top (if you can see past the throng of shamelessly smooching, necking and petting teen-agers crowding you.) Weirdly, that top is almost impossible to see from street level. Watch your step! It's all crumbling away.
Surprising about this is, you can look out all over the city from that top but we really had to search for a street from where you could see the 'castle'.
About Town
Never been really great lovers of shopping in busy smog-bound streets. What we did enjoy was the Plaza de Armas, where people gather on sunny Sunday afternoons.