Not so long ago an old and crummy neigborhood, it has now been rediscovered - to be turned into a giant tourist-sucking trap. We were just in time with out visit; plenty that still has to be 'improved'.
There's a tree-lined Sucker Street from a bridge over the extremely filthy river in which tourists end up every once in a while. I guess without their wallets. The sidewalks are crammed to double capacity with side-walk cafés, but not much coffee is taken: It's mostly giant one-liter bottles of beer (may be the German influence again?) No wonder they tend to end up in that river.
The street leads up to a hill with a funicular and even more tourist attractions.